Safety

What to do after a car backs into your garage door

After a car hits a garage door, keep the opener unplugged, keep everyone clear of the door, springs and cables, and photograph the damage before anything moves; a bent track or a cable off its drum can let the door drop.

When a car hits a garage door anywhere in Vancouver or Clark County, we treat the dent as the least of it: the danger sits in springs still under tension, lift cables that may have jumped their drums, and tracks bent out of line. Treat the door as unstable until someone has looked at all of it.

An impact often leaves the door crooked or riding outside its rollers, which is the job our off-track door repair covers. The page on a crooked or off-track door shows what each kind of misalignment looks like from the garage floor.

What to do in the first ten minutes after a car hits the door

Check on people, cut the opener’s power, leave the car, the release and the springs alone, photograph everything and secure the house, in that order, skipping any step that would put someone under or beside the door.

  1. Check people first. Anyone hurt, anyone still in the car, any child or pet near the door.
  2. Cut power to the opener. Unplug it if you can reach the cord without standing under the door, or switch off its breaker, so no remote, keypad or car button can start it.
  3. Leave the car where it is if the door rests on it. A door sitting on a hood or roof may be held up by the car. DASMA warns that collapsing a door with a vehicle releases the stored tension in its counterbalance system, which puts the car and the people in it at risk.
  4. Leave the red release alone. On a door that is partly open or out of its tracks, the opener may be holding weight the springs no longer can.
  5. Stay away from the springs, cables and bottom brackets. They are under tension, and a cable that has jumped its drum can let a corner drop.
  6. Photograph everything before anything moves. The documentation section below lists the shots that matter.
  7. Secure the house. If the door will not close, lock the door between the garage and the house and move anything valuable out of reach, then call.

DASMA’s sheet on added weight notes that doors can weigh from 90 pounds to over 500, and it calls a door falling out of its tracks dangerous to people and property nearby. That is the reason for the caution above.

Why the opener stays off until the door is checked

An opener has no way of knowing the door is damaged; it pushes or pulls until its force setting trips, and that effort can finish what the car started.

A bent track grabs the rollers, so a running opener strains against it, folding a section at a hinge line, pulling a roller out of the track, or tearing the top section where the opener arm attaches. If a cable has come off its drum, running the door can leave it hanging from one corner.

The opener’s force setting exists to protect people, not a damaged door, and at its limit it can still bend a section or a track. Leave the opener unplugged until the door moves freely by hand from top to bottom.

What gets inspected after a car hits a garage door

A proper inspection follows the order DASMA sets out for checking a door after damage: alignment, the frame, the track, the rollers, brackets and hinges, the spring system, then the sections themselves.

Each part fails in its own way after an impact, and each failure points to a different repair, so the table pairs them up.

Part What an impact does to it The repair it usually needs
Bottom section and seal Dents, folds, a torn bottom seal or a split bottom rail One section replaced, or the whole door if the model is gone
Vertical track Bent inward or outward, or pulled loose from the jamb brackets Straightened where the steel allows, or a new track piece
Rollers and roller stems Knocked out of the track or bent New rollers, with the door set back in its track
Hinges Cracked at the knuckle or torn from the section New hinges, matched to their numbered positions
Lift cables and drums A cable off the drum, kinked, or frayed where it rubbed New cables and a rebalance
Bottom brackets Bent along with the bottom corner New brackets, fitted only after spring tension is let off
Jambs and header Split wood, loose lag screws, framing pushed back Carpentry first, then the door work
Opener rail and door arm A bent arm or a rail knocked out of line Arm or rail replaced, travel and force reset

DASMA’s glossary explains the hinge line: edge hinges are graduated and numbered so the door closes flush against the jambs, so a replacement goes back by number, not by guesswork.

The framing is the item to take seriously. DASMA’s damage sheet says that if you are unsure about the framing the door attaches to, a building contractor or design professional should look at it, and a door hung on cracked jambs will not stay aligned for long.

Car damage that shows up weeks later

Some impact damage stays quiet for weeks, then appears as a door that binds, rubs, sags or wears one cable faster than the other.

Watch for a gap at one side of the closed door, rollers that ride hard against one track, a section that bows when the door is open, or a cable fraying where it rubs a bent bracket. A door pushed out of square can run for a while before the rollers start to bind.

Before the opener goes back into daily service, the door should move freely by hand and pass the federal reverse test, which asks owners to confirm every month that a closing door backs off when it meets a 2x4 resting flat beneath it.

Photos to take for your own insurance claim

Photos taken before anything is moved make any claim easier, and Washington’s Office of the Insurance Commissioner tells homeowners to be ready to provide receipts and photos to prove a loss.

Take these shots in order, with the date recorded on each file, and take more of them than you think you will need:

  1. A wide shot from the driveway showing the car and the whole door.
  2. The point of contact on the car and on the door, close up.
  3. A wide interior shot of the whole door, garage lights on.
  4. Each vertical track from the floor up to the bend, on both sides.
  5. The bottom corners: brackets, cable ends and the seal.
  6. The drums and cables at the top, shot from the floor without climbing near them.
  7. The jambs and header where the track brackets fasten.
  8. The opener, its rail and the arm on the top section.

The commissioner’s office also says to contact your agent or company, review the policy with them and ask what is covered, and to keep copies of everything. It also notes that you have the right to select your own contractor to do the work on your home.

Who pays depends on who was driving and on the policies involved, which is a question for your agent. Whatever the answer, ask for a written estimate that lists each damaged part, so the adjuster sees the cables and brackets as well as the dent.

Repair or replace a garage door after a car hits it

A single dented section, a bent track and a set of rollers are usually repairable, while several folded sections, a twisted frame or a discontinued model may make a new door the better use of the money.

Section availability decides a lot. Where the maker still builds the model, one damaged section can be ordered by make, model and color, which matters in a tract whose HOA expects every door on the street to match. Our repair or replace guide walks through the rest of the decision.

Follow-up questions

What should I do first after a car hits my garage door?

Check that nobody is hurt, then unplug the opener and keep everyone away from the door, springs and cables. If the door is resting on the car, leave the car where it is until the door is supported. Take photos before anything moves, and leave the red release alone on a door that is off its track.

What hidden damage can a car leave on a garage door that still opens?

A door that still opens can hide a kinked track, a cracked hinge, a cable fraying against a bent bracket, or jambs pushed back from the framing. Those show up later as binding, rubbing, a gap at one side or one cable wearing faster than the other. Have the whole system checked before the opener runs it daily again.

What photos should I take of a garage door hit by a car for an insurance claim?

Start with a wide shot from the driveway with the car still in place, then close-ups of both contact points and wide shots from inside. Add each track, the bottom brackets and cable ends, the drums seen from the floor, the jambs and the opener arm. Keep the originals, make copies, and note the date.

Sources

Where the facts in this guide come from, in the order they appear.

  1. DASMA Technical Data Sheet 385: Opening a Motorized Garage Door to Exit a Home Through the Garage in a Power Outage (vehicles and stored spring tension)
  2. DASMA Technical Data Sheet 174: Building Occupant, Checking a Residential Sectional Garage Door for Damage
  3. DASMA Technical Data Sheet 160: Sectional Garage Door Terminology (graduated edge hinges)
  4. 16 CFR 1211.16, Instructions to owners, including the monthly reversal test (Cornell Legal Information Institute)
  5. Washington State Office of the Insurance Commissioner: Filing a homeowner insurance claim
  6. DASMA Technical Data Sheet 176: Adding Weight to a Garage Door Assembly (a door out of its tracks)

Other pages about the same parts and problems.

Want a price before anyone drives over?

Call and describe what the door is doing, or text a photo of the door and the spring above it. You hear the likely repair and where its price starts, then decide.